I’ve had the fortunate and privileged opportunity to experience many different watch brands over the years. What makes Grand Seiko so unique is how it is thoughtfully constructed with a distinct identity rooted in Japanese culture. Unlike many other brands, Grand Seiko had to figure things out independently, without the same ecosystem of support that many industry giants enjoy. This isolation fostered a unique identity that is distinctly its own.
What’s interesting is that with Grand Seiko, you can start from both the outside and the inside. This isn’t the case with many other brands where the focus is often superficial. Grand Seiko’s meticulous attention to both external design and internal mechanics sets it apart. Everything that is designed on the outside is also done with the technical in mind, creating a seamless integration of form and function. This holistic approach is what makes Grand Seiko stand out in the world of watchmaking.
Recalling my personal introduction to the brand some years back, I was initially drawn to the aesthetic appeal of Grand Seiko’s cases and dials. The pride and dedication of the artisans are evident in every piece they create. It’s hard not to be captivated.
But as I delved deeper, I began to appreciate the brand on its horological merits as well.
9R Spring Drive, of course, stands out as a revolutionary type of movement, unique to Grand Seiko. However, that’s just one aspect of Grand Seiko’s approach to watchmaking. Its mechanical innovations have consistently taken big leaps rather than small steps to improve and elevate the product.
9R Spring Drive, of course, stands out as a revolutionary type of movement, unique to Grand Seiko. However, that’s just one aspect of Grand Seiko’s approach to watchmaking. Its mechanical innovations have consistently taken big leaps rather than small steps to improve and elevate the product.
When I first encountered the Grand Seiko SLGH005, I was struck by how it stood out within the brand’s catalog. This model, the third in the Evolution 9 Collection following the lauded SLGH002 and SLGH003 – both limited pieces – certainly made an immediate impression on me with its amazing white birch-inspired dial. But the SLGH005 also introduced me to a whole new level of mechanical excellence with what lies inside the watch: the 9SA5 movement.
Caliber 9SA5 took nine years to develop, and in the past century of watchmaking, new escapement concepts brought to scale are exceptionally rare. The 9SA5 features the ingenious Dual Impulse Escapement and offers 80 hours of power reserve at a 5 Hz frequency. This combination of efficiency and performance is almost unprecedented in the industry. Learning about the movement’s development and its components made me appreciate the meticulous craftsmanship and innovation that Grand Seiko embodies.
The SLGH005 and the Evolution 9 Collection represent a significant step up for Grand Seiko, showcasing the brand’s ability to innovate mechanically. The introduction of the 9SA5 movement and the Evolution 9 principles reinforced Grand Seiko’s status as a premier watchmaker and made it clear that the brand has much more to offer beyond what is immediately visible.
As someone who writes about and sells watches, I’ve observed how this movement has educated enthusiasts and customers alike. Grand Seiko isn’t the easiest brand to navigate due to its vast range of models and technologies. However, explaining the revolutionary nature of the 9SA5 movement has helped people understand and appreciate the brand’s depth. The Dual Impulse Escapement and the high-beat frequency set this movement apart from others in the industry, akin to the coaxial escapement in terms of innovation and production scale.
When the SLGH005 was first released, initial reactions were based on photos and specs. However, strapping the watch onto my wrist was a completely different experience. The SLGH005 had a presence and feel that was immediately impressive. The bracelet was comfortable, the case finish was superb, and the brushed bezel contrasted beautifully with the dial. The dial itself, with its high legibility and heavily faceted indices in alignment with the Evolution 9 design principles, stood out right away.
It’s a very wearable watch, and at 40mm, it fits comfortably on the wrist. The movement architecture allows the watch to wear thin, even with a Twin-Barrel System providing 80 hours of power reserve. This engineering feat ensures that the watch doesn’t add unnecessary thickness, enhancing its overall wearability.
The SLGH005 embodies the spirit and ethos of Grand Seiko, encapsulated in the brand’s philosophy known as the “The Nature of Time.” This concept is not merely a marketing ploy but a genuine reflection of the brand’s deep connection to the natural world and its rhythms. The dial of the SLGH005, inspired by the white birch trees near the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi, beautifully captures this connection. The texture and pattern of the dial evoke the serene beauty of a birch forest, bringing a piece of nature directly to the wearer’s wrist.
But the homage to nature doesn’t stop at the dial. The movement’s design, featuring a beautifully finished bridge and beveled edges, mirrors natural elements such as the flow of a river. This is evident in the smooth, flowing lines and the meticulous finishing of each component.
The SLGH005 is more than just a timepiece; it is a synthesis of nature and engineering, artistry and functionality. Every element, from the dial’s design to the movement’s mechanics, is crafted with intention and precision. This harmonious blend of external beauty and internal excellence sets Grand Seiko apart, making the SLGH005 a true embodiment of the brand’s philosophy and a standout in the world of horology.
Photography courtesy of Teddy Baldassarre
Text by Teddy Baldassarre
Teddy Baldassarre is the owner and host of the leading educational video content outlet in watches as well as the founder of TeddyBaldassarre.com. With media channels reaching over 8 million watch enthusiasts every month, Teddy has become an authority among the modern watch-collecting public and a leading proponent of horology.
